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Our skincare is clean label: vegan, fragrance-free, alcohol-free and free from toxins

Why a formula cannot be 100% natural

For every CL Skincare product, we transparently communicate the percentage of natural ingredients. Our formulas range between 92.94% and 98.92% natural, which is considered exceptionally high in the cosmetic industry. Nevertheless, the question regularly arises as to why a product is not 100% natural. The answer lies in how a safe, stable, and effective cosmetic formula is constructed.

A skincare product is more than a collection of active ingredients. A cream, serum, or cleanser must remain stable for months, be free from bacteria and fungi, feel pleasant on the skin, and retain its efficacy under varying temperatures. Without a small, carefully selected group of functional excipients, this is simply not possible. A 100% natural formula could spoil, separate, or change texture within weeks, thereby not only becoming unappealing but also unsafe for the skin.

What is not classified as natural in our formulas is therefore not an addition without reason. These are the substances that hold the formula together, protect against microbial growth, and bring the pH to the correct level. Without these ingredients, a product would not comply with European safety regulations for cosmetics.

How the naturalness percentage is calculated

ISO 16128, the international standard

The naturalness percentage on our packaging is based on ISO 16128, the international standard for determining the natural and organic origin of cosmetic ingredients. This standard distinguishes four categories: natural ingredients, naturally derived ingredients, non-natural ingredients, and water. Water is counted as 100% natural and often forms the largest component of a formula.

An ingredient is considered natural when it comes directly from a plant, mineral, or animal source without chemical processing. If the ingredient is obtained from a natural raw material but then slightly processed, for example, through fermentation or hydrolysis, it is classified as a naturally derived ingredient. Both categories count towards the final percentage. The small remaining percentage consists of the functional excipients explained below.

Functional excipients explained

What they do and why they are necessary

In our formulas, a handful of ingredients are not classified as natural. Below, we explain what they are, what their function is, and why we have chosen these specific substances.

Phenoxyethanol

One of the most widely used preservatives in modern cosmetics. Phenoxyethanol protects the formula against bacteria, yeasts, and molds that would otherwise grow in a water-containing product within days to weeks. We use it in low, EU-approved concentrations (maximum 1%). It is a stable, mild, and well-researched alternative to parabens and is recognized by dermatologists worldwide as one of the safest options for sensitive skin.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Often used in combination with phenoxyethanol to enhance its preservative effect. It also acts as a skin conditioner and contributes to a pleasant skin feel. Although synthetically produced, it is based on glycerin and is considered particularly skin-friendly.

Polysorbate 20 and Polysorbate 60

Emulsifiers that ensure oil and water phases in a cream or serum remain combined. Without an emulsifier, a cream would separate within hours into a greasy top layer and a watery bottom layer. Polysorbates are derived from sorbitol, a natural sugar compound, but due to processing, they are not considered fully natural. They have been in use for decades, are well-tolerated, and stable.

Hydroxyethylcellulose and related thickeners

Thickeners that determine the texture of a serum or gel. They provide a smooth, even consistency, allowing the product to glide pleasantly over the skin. Cellulose derivatives are extracted from plant fibers, but because they are chemically modified to achieve their thickening effect, they formally fall outside the natural category. Xanthan gum, which we also use, is of natural origin and contributes to the high naturalness percentage.

Sodium Hydroxide and Citric Acid

Used to precisely adjust the pH of the formula to a value that the skin finds comfortable and where active ingredients work optimally. The skin barrier functions best around a pH of 5.5. A formula with an incorrect pH can cause irritation or reduce the effectiveness of, for example, vitamin C. Citric acid is derived from citrus fruits; sodium hydroxide is a mineral substance. Both are used in very small quantities.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

A chelating agent that ensures trace metal ions in the water (originating from pipe networks or raw materials) are rendered harmless. Without this substance, active ingredients such as vitamin C would oxidize more quickly and lose their efficacy. It is derived from glutamic acid, an amino acid, and is considered an environmentally friendly and skin-friendly alternative to classic chelating agents such as EDTA.

Sodium Benzoate

An additional preservative used particularly in our Face Wash. It occurs naturally in cinnamon, cloves, and berries, among other things, but for cosmetic use, it is synthetically produced to ensure consistent quality. It is approved by the European Union and has been safely used for decades in both cosmetics and food.

Our Choices

What we use and don't use

At CL Skincare, we have deliberately chosen formulas that are as natural as possible, without compromising on safety, stability, or efficacy. This means we select the mildest, well-researched excipients available in the cosmetic industry and incorporate them in the lowest possible concentrations.

Our formulas contain no parabens, no sulfates like SLS or SLES, no mineral oils, no silicones, no synthetic colorants, and no harsh fragrances. The choice for our preservatives, emulsifiers, and thickeners is always based on a balance between skin-friendliness, environmental impact, and formula stability.

The result is a product line where the natural content ranges between 92.94% and 98.92%, with formulas that remain stable for months, feel pleasant on the skin, and deliver on their promises. The remaining few percent is not a compromise but a conscious investment in a product that is safe, effective, and sustainable.

Conclusion

Transparency as a starting point

We believe that honest communication about what is in a product is at least as important as the product itself. That's why we not only list the active ingredients on our packaging but also the full percentage of naturalness and the complete INCI list. Anyone who wants to know why a specific ingredient is in a formula is always welcome to ask. Beauty in balance starts with understanding.

Sources and further reading

ISO 16128: International standard for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients.

Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009: European regulation on cosmetic products.

SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety): European safety assessments of cosmetic ingredients.

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