Why a formula cannot be 100% natural

For every CL Skincare product, we transparently communicate the percentage of natural ingredients. Our formulas are between 92.94% and 98.92% natural, which is considered exceptionally high in the cosmetics industry. Nevertheless, we are frequently asked why a product is not 100% natural. The answer lies in how a safe, stable, and effective cosmetic formula is constructed.

A skincare product is more than just a collection of active ingredients. A cream, serum, or cleanser must remain stable for months, be free of bacteria and mold, feel pleasant on the skin, and maintain its effectiveness under varying temperatures. Without a small, carefully chosen group of functional excipients, this is simply not possible. A 100% natural formula could spoil, separate, or change texture within a few weeks, making it not only unappealing but also unsafe for the skin.

What is not classified as natural in our formulas is therefore not an additive without a purpose. These are the substances that hold the formula together, protect it against microbial growth, and bring the pH to the correct level. Without these ingredients, a product would not comply with European cosmetic safety regulations.

How the percentage of naturality is calculated

ISO 16128, the international standard

The percentage of naturality on our packaging is based on ISO 16128, the international standard for determining the natural and organic origin of cosmetic ingredients. This standard distinguishes four categories: natural ingredients, ingredients of natural origin, non-natural ingredients, and water. Water is counted as 100% natural and often forms the largest component of a formula.

An ingredient is considered natural when it comes directly from a plant, mineral, or animal source without chemical processing. If an ingredient is obtained from a natural raw material but is subsequently lightly processed, for example via fermentation or hydrolysis, it is classified as an ingredient of natural origin. Both categories count toward the final percentage. The small remaining percentage consists of the functional excipients explained below.

The functional excipients explained

What they do and why they are necessary

Our formulas contain a handful of ingredients that are not classified as natural. Below, we explain what these are, their function, and why we have chosen these specific substances.

Phenoxyethanol

One of the most widely used preservatives in modern cosmetics. Phenoxyethanol protects the formula against bacteria, yeasts, and molds that would otherwise grow within days or weeks in a water-containing product. We use it in low, EU-approved concentrations (maximum 1%). It is a stable, mild, and well-researched alternative to parabens and is recognized by dermatologists worldwide as one of the safest options for sensitive skin.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Often used in combination with phenoxyethanol to enhance its preservative effect. Additionally, it acts as a skin softener and contributes to a pleasant skin feel. Although it is synthetically produced, it is based on glycerin and is considered particularly skin-friendly.

Polysorbate 20 and Polysorbate 60

Emulsifiers that ensure the oil and water phases in a cream or serum remain combined. Without an emulsifier, a cream would separate within hours into a greasy top layer and a watery bottom layer. Polysorbates are derived from sorbitol, a natural sugar compound, but due to processing, they are not considered completely natural. They have been in use for decades, are well-tolerated, and are stable.

Hydroxyethylcellulose and related thickeners

Thickening agents that determine the texture of a serum or gel. They ensure a smooth, even consistency, allowing the product to glide pleasantly over the skin. Cellulose derivatives are extracted from plant fibers, but because they are chemically modified to achieve their thickening effect, they formally fall outside the natural category. Xanthan gum, which we also use, is indeed of natural origin and contributes to the high naturality percentage.

Sodium Hydroxide and Citric Acid

Used to precisely set the pH of the formula to a value that is comfortable for the skin and at which active ingredients perform optimally. The skin barrier functions best at a pH of around 5.5. A formula with the wrong pH can cause irritation or reduce the effectiveness of, for instance, Vitamin C. Citric acid is derived from citrus fruits; sodium hydroxide is a mineral substance. Both are used in very small quantities.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

A chelating agent that ensures that traces of metal ions in the water (originating from pipe networks or raw materials) are rendered harmless. Without this substance, active ingredients like Vitamin C would oxidize faster and lose their effectiveness. It is derived from glutamic acid, an amino acid, and is considered an environmentally friendly and skin-friendly alternative to classic chelating agents such as EDTA.

Sodium Benzoate

An additional preservative used primarily in our Face Wash. It occurs naturally in substances such as cinnamon, cloves, and berries, but for cosmetic use, it is synthetically produced to guarantee consistent quality. It is approved by the European Union and has been used safely for decades in both cosmetics and food.

Our choices

What we do and do not use

At CL Skincare, we have consciously chosen formulas that are as natural as possible without compromising on safety, stability, or efficacy. This means we choose the mildest, best-researched excipients available in the cosmetics industry and incorporate them in the lowest possible concentrations.

Our formulas contain no parabens, no sulfates such as SLS or SLES, no mineral oils, no silicones, no synthetic dyes, and no harsh fragrances. The choice of our preservatives, emulsifiers, and thickeners is always based on a balance between skin-friendliness, environmental impact, and formula stability.

The result is a product line with a natural content between 92.94% and 98.92%, with formulas that remain stable for months, feel pleasant on the skin, and do what they promise. The remaining few percent is not a compromise, but a conscious investment in a product that is safe, effective, and sustainable.

In closing

Transparency as a foundation

We believe that honest communication about what is in a product is at least as important as the product itself. That is why we not only list the active ingredients on our packaging but also the total naturality percentage and the full INCI list. Anyone wishing to know why a specific ingredient is in a formula is always welcome to ask. Beauty in balance begins with understanding.

Sources and further reading

ISO 16128: International standard for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients.

Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009: European regulation on cosmetic products.

SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety): European safety assessments of cosmetic ingredients.

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